The best tweaks and tweaks for Creality CR-6 SE

23. 05. 2023

Extrusion

The following upgrades and modifications are all related to the CR-6 SE's filament extrusion process. It is a process from feeding the filament to the printer until it is actually extruded.

1. Bowden PTFE tube from Capricorn brand

The PTFE tube in the printer helps guide the filament from the extruder to the hotend. Although it may not seem important, poor quality tubing can lead to clogging of the hotend or other extrusion problems. The tubes that are supplied in the basic equipment from Creality are not considered to be of high quality, so you can replace them with tubes from the Capricorn brand.

Capricorn is a well-respected brand of PTFE tubing, and their blue 1.75mm tubing works great in both the CR-6 SE version and other versions of Creality's 3D printers. The tube keeps the filament taut from the extruder to the hotend, reducing the chance of clogging and allowing you to use a lower retraction setting. The upgrade is straightforward - all you have to do is replace the PTFE tube and both PTFE couplings (one on the extruder and one on the hotend) from Capricorn.

Reason for upgrade : provides a narrower path for the filament from the extruder to the hotend, reducing the likelihood of clogging

Parts needed : PTFE tube Capricorn 1.75 mm

2. E3D V6 hotend

The CR-6 SE version includes a fairly powerful hotend that can reach up to 260 °C. This maximum nozzle temperature is more than sufficient for most materials (e.g. PLA, ABS, PETG), but more advanced materials such as polycarbonate require a higher temperature. When you replace the CR-6 SE's existing hotend with an E3D V6 hotend , it allows you to reach up to 300°C on the nozzle. Which means the new hotend can handle almost any thermoplastic for 3D printing.

Unlike the stock hotend on the CR-6 SE version, the E3D V6 is all-metal, which means there's no PTFE liner, which tends to burn out at temperatures above 260°C. The E3D V6 hotend is supplied with an E3D nozzle - a high-performance heating cartridge and a thermistor , which are capable of operating at up to 300 °C. Hotend E3D V6 is available in several versions (direct or bowden extruder, diameter 1.75 or 2.85 mm). 

If you want to install a new hotend on the CR-6 SE, you will need to use additional accessories (such as a printable mount). The printer firmware will also need to be changed to accommodate the new E3D thermistor.

Reason for upgrade : allows higher nozzle temperature so it is possible to print with more advanced materials

Necessary parts : E3D V6 hotend including accessories

3. Filament guide and filament sensor

The CR-6 SE has many great features, but there are still some flaws to be found. The filament sensor is designed to ensure that the filament stays straight and does not catch on anything on its way from the spool holder to the extruder. But one user noted that this sensor is made of metal and has sharp edges that can wear or damage the filament. There is a project available that includes several parts including replacing the filament sensor housing to avoid this problem.

It also includes a bearing for guiding the filament and a spool holder, which needs to be mounted on the top of the CR-6 SE printer. These parts can be easily assembled from 3D printable accessories and printer accessories. User Icelandian , who suggested this upgrade, points out that by relocating the side filament spool holder to the top of the frame, you reduce the unnecessarily large dimensions of the printer. The user also points out the gap between the filament sensor and the extruder, which makes it difficult to feed the filament into the extruder. All the accessories in this project are designed specifically to fit the CR-6 SE and can be mounted on it without any problem.

All the 3D models needed to make the parts you'll need for the upgrade can be found on the Instructables project website . You will also need allen keys (which come with the CR-6 SE printer), some bearings (type 608Z), a 5mm LED and some screws. You can also find detailed instructions for building the upgrade on Instructables.

Reason for upgrade : makes filament guiding easier and keeps filament on track

Necessary parts : bearings , LED diode, screws, 3D printed parts

Detailed instructions : Instructables

4. Dual Drive metal extruder

A Dual Drive extruder is a specific type of extruder that uses not one, but two drive gears . Many extruders, including the one supplied with the CR-6 SE, are single-drive. Which means it has a gear drive attached to the axis of the extruder stepper motor. Single drive extruders use a bearing on the other side of the filament path, while gears from a Dual Drive extruder use a different drive wheel.

A Dual Drive extruder essentially wraps around the filament on both sides, providing more pushing force on the filament than a single drive extruder. This type of extruder is particularly useful for 3D printing flexible filaments and could be a great upgrade for the CR-6 SE version. There are several twin drive extruders that are compatible with the CR-6 SE printer such as the LGX or the BMG from BondTech, which you can order here .

But perhaps the simplest option is a double-drive extruder set from the BigTreeTech brand. It's a dual drive mechanism that you can fit onto your existing extruder motor. If you want to install this extruder, all you have to do is remove the old extruder using the Allen keys (included with the printer) and replace it with the Dual Drive extruder. It should be noted that the BigTreeTech dual-drive extruder mentioned above is designed for other versions of Creality printers. And that's why it doesn't exactly fit the CR-6 SE version. But it can be attached with a small spacer (about 10 mm) that you can print.

Reason for upgrade : provides better extrusion force for filaments, facilitates printing of flexible filaments

Parts needed : Dual Drive extruder

5. Extruder with direct drive

In the article above, you could read about the characteristics of a single and dual drive extruder, and another type of extruder is its setup and location relative to the hotend. In the basic version of the CR-6 SE, the Bowden system is used, where the extruder is located separately from the hotend, where the filament passes through a PTFE tube. On the other hand, with a direct drive system, the extruder is located directly above the hotend, so there is no need for a long bowden tube.

Both Direct Drive and Dual Drive extruders are great for printing flexible filaments, but clogging can be a problem. Thingiverse user BostonBowser came up with a 3D printable bracket to convert to a direct drive extruder. The project also includes several other features, such as a pipe for a partially cooled fan, a holder for a filament guide sensor, and more. This upgrade requires quite a lot of accessories, such as the 5015 fan , screws and other parts. User BostonBowser suggests mounting the stepper motor 25mm above the extruder motor. However, another user solved the situation by using the original engine with minor modifications. You can read more about it here .

You may need to solder the wires to extend them, as the original wires may not be long enough if you move the extruder. User prepared instructions and a guide for installation, so if you have the necessary equipment, go ahead.

Reason for upgrade : placing the extruder directly above the hotend ensured more flexible printing

Parts needed : radial fan , stepper motor, 3D printed parts, screws

Detailed instructions: Thingiverse

6. Distribution for the cooling fan

A cooling fan manifold will create a better path for your printer to cool the freshly melted plastic more efficiently. The cooling fan in the basic version from Creality blows air on the printed part from one side only. This one-sided cooling is a simple solution for manufacturers, but spatial cooling will provide better quality prints, especially when working with overhangs.

This upgrade is a hexagonal cooling manifold located centrally around the nozzle. You can attach it to the print head without using new hardware. The new fan manifold replaces the original one and you can screw it onto the end of the fan using the mounting holes on the model. It's great that the new manifold doesn't interfere with the nozzle's visibility (as you can see in the image below).

The user who came up with this model said he printed the upgrade using at least 20% fill density and a layer height of 0.1-0.2mm. The upgrade description states that some people have had issues with airflow. If this problem occurs to you, you can try using a modified design with larger gaps for air flow.

Reason for upgrade : provides more effective spatial cooling for prints

Parts needed : 3D printed part

Detailed instructions : Thingiverse

Printing mat

Subsequent adjustments concern an important component of every 3D printer - the printing pad. 

7. Spring steel printing pad with PEI coating

The printing pad is usually made of a material that is designed to provide sufficient adhesion of the first layer (eg glass, PEI material, etc.). Quality print mats are less likely to warp, loosen, or otherwise distort prints (unless other factors are at play).

The CR-6 SE version already comes with  a tempered glass base . Which is a great choice by the manufacturers, because the prints stick when the pad is hot, but come off easily when it cools down. While for the Creality Ender 3 and CR-10 printers, the tempered glass mat is an optional extra, the CR-6 SE comes with the basic equipment.

At the same time, there are other types of printing pads that provide different advantages over glass material, such as the popular variant – the PEI-coated spring steel pad that comes with the Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer . This mat is another possible upgrade for the CR-6 SE, as it is also made from a super grippy surface, but with the added benefits of flexibility and magnetism. The abbreviation PEI in the name of this printing pad stands for low-maintenance Polyetherimide material. This mat can be used with a wide range of 3D printing filament materials.

These printing pads primarily come in two surface finishes: textured and smooth. In general, the textured option provides better adhesion, but leaves a rougher texture on the first layer of prints, which can mean additional work to finish the print. The textured version also releases prints easily once the pad cools. It's a bit harder to remove the prints than the smooth version, but the underside of the print has an amazingly smooth surface.

If you want to attach a steel pad to your CR-6 SE printer, remove the glass pad (including the clamps), apply the magnetic layer, and then place a new pad on top. Make sure you place the mat with your desired texture facing up (smooth or textured). And finally, don't forget that you can always remove and bend the print mat to peel off any print that hasn't come loose with the cooling alone.

Reason for upgrade : provides great first layer adhesion, makes print removal easier

Parts needed : spring steel printing pad

8. Handle for printing pad

If you have a very hot print pad (which happens especially if you are printing with high temperature materials like ABS that require a pad temperature of over 100°C), touching the pad isn't exactly the best idea. Fortunately, tinkerers have come up with a way to avoid direct contact with the heated pad - a 3D printable handle that can be attached to the bottom frame of the pad.

This upgrade is not just a simple pad handle as it has camera mounting holes to allow for time-lapse print documentation and easy print monitoring via platforms (such as the Creality Wi-Fi Box or OctoPrint). The handle is easy to install, but you will need a few screws. The user recommends printing this handle with 20% fill density and PLA material without supports. Which shouldn't be a problem since the model has only very small overhangs (two screw holes).

Reason for upgrade : It will allow you to monitor your printer and handle the print pad safely so you don't burn yourself

Parts needed : 3D printed parts, camera mount and camera (optional)

Detailed instructions : Thingiverse

Environment

These upgrades and modifications enhance the CR-6 SE's non-print functions, whether it's light, ambient temperature or Wi-Fi connectivity.

9. Boxing

If you want to print higher temperature materials that are sensitive to temperature conditions (such as ABS or PC) on your CR-6 SE, you will need a box for your printer that can easily fit inside. The main purpose of the box is to provide your printer with a stable temperature environment, thanks to which you can achieve maximum print quality on sensitive materials.

Additionally, materials like ABS and PC print best when they are in a warm environment. The boxes help capture the heat generated by the printer and also prevent external factors such as drafts and humidity from entering the printer area. Which could lead to damage to the prints.

For the CR-6 SE version, there are several options to resolve the printer shutdown. Among them are the popular official boxes from Creality and the acrylic box from 3DUpFitter. Both are excellent, perfectly isolating your printer while still allowing you to see the print area and access the printer. Another solution is to make your own box.

Reason for the upgrade : the box maintains the temperature conditions around the printer, prevents air drafts from affecting the prints, allows printing with more advanced material

Parts needed : box frame (can be purchased) or the entire box

10. Wi-Fi box from Creality

Creality's Wi-Fi Box is Creality's own remote control for their 3D printers with an app and camera (if you choose), which can be a fantastic upgrade for the CR-6 SE. With the Creality Wi-Fi Box, you can remotely monitor your 3D printer, start printing, control temperature settings and more. In addition to these functions, you can also use the additional Creality Cloud application. These functions are supported for the CR-6 SE version if you are using the basic printing pad. Creality offers an installation guide, so there should be no problem with the setup.

The reason for the upgrade : the ability to print and control the device remotely, monitor the printer using the application from Creality

Parts needed : Wi-Fi Box from Creality

11. Light bar 

With a lot of machines, lighting may be an unimportant aspect, but with a 3D printer, where you're constantly watching the print bed to make sure the first layer has printed smoothly, lighting is important. The company Creality has already noticed this problem in the basic version, it supplies an LED light on the print head, which is aimed directly at the nozzle. This accessory is great if you want to look directly at where the nozzle is going, but otherwise it doesn't illuminate the surrounding area much.

Creality's LED lighting is great to start with, but adding a light bar will give you more visibility over your prints. The project below includes a simple mounting plate that you can easily attach the light bar to with regular adhesives (or some light bars have adhesive foil on the back). The user writes that he printed the mounting plate without supports and used black PLA material, thanks to which you hardly notice the holder. A decent way to play around with print enhancements on your 3D printer.

Reason for upgrade : better lighting of the print surface

Parts needed : smaller light bar, 3D printed parts

Detailed instructions : Thingiverse

12. Vibration damping legs

The CR-6 SE printer is equipped with TMC2209 stepper motor drivers that significantly reduce motor noise. Although the printer is not very loud, the quieter the better! These anti-vibration feet are placed under the printer and reduce noise by absorbing vibrations. Which is good news for both your ears and your prints. Thanks to user Thingiverse, there is a tutorial on how to print the legs, including information about the material used - a 10% fill density TPU material, which is ideal in terms of flexibility. But any impact resistant material like ABS or nylon can be used too.

The reason for the upgrade : to reduce the noise of the printer, to prevent vibrations that disturb the print

Parts needed : 3D printed parts

Detailed instructions : Thingiverse

13. Cable organization

A standard issue with any home printer like the CR-6 SE is cable routing and alignment. Near moving parts, it is important to keep the cables aligned so they don't get in the way! The CR-6 SE printhead is powered and connected to the motherboard via a ribbon cable, which is important to ensure it doesn't catch on anything (especially your prints). The support is an upgrade that attaches to the printhead and is designed to hold the ribbon cable up. The support design even has a feature that holds the PTFE tube in place. The user also points out that this add-on does not increase the dimensions of the printhead, so no X-axis modifications are necessary to install this upgrade.

You can also use cable chains to guide the cables. Cable chains are easy to modify as you can add and remove them as needed. Cable chains protect the cables so you don't have to worry about them getting damaged by external aspects (like the hotend). Cable chains are very easy to print, 20% fill density was used to print them with supports activated on the "EndLink" component.

The reason for the upgrade : to protect the cables and arrange them so they don't get in the way

Parts needed : 3D printed parts

Detailed instructions : support: kevfquinn -  Cults , cable chains: Riddeen - Thingiverse