3D Printer Bed Adhesion
What is Adhesion?
They keep talking about it, but what exactly is it? Filament adhesion is the ability of the filament to stick to the print bed during 3D printing. This is about the first layer of printed filament, because if it fails to adhere properly to the printing pad, it can cause the print to twist, shift or otherwise deform.
Adhesion is a frequently discussed topic among 3D printing users. The basic advice is: choose a printing pad suitable for the filament used and calibrate it correctly. But there is no universal printing pad that is ideal for all types of filament. And likewise, some filaments have almost no problem with adhesion, and with some you may have to try different tips and tricks before you figure out how to do it. If you are interested in various tips on how to stick to specific filaments, you can read about it right here.
There are many aspects that can affect whether the filament adheres properly to the substrate. Is part of them:
- the type of filament used
- type of printing pad
- correct calibration of the printing pad
- print speed
- set nozzle height
- degree of fuku
- temperature during printing
- used additional adhesion promoting products
- printing of the brim (or raft or skirt)
When the print does not fit as you would like - the basic rules
- Clean and degrease the printing pad. You can use a microfiber cloth dipped in alcohol for this. Of course, only after you make sure that the alcohol will not damage the mat you are using.
- Calibrate the printing pad that is suitable for the filament used.
- Set the nozzle to the correct height.
- Set the correct hotend temperature that will be ideal for the particular filament.
- If necessary, use the print of the brim (or raft or skirt) - we have already written about this here.
- Adjust the fan settings to get the correct blowing intensity.
Tips to influence adhesion
Thermal expansionAnother aspect that can partially affect how well your print adheres is thermal expansion. Due to temperature differences between the bottom and top of the print, the edges of the model may peel. Therefore, it is important to set the hotend temperature correctly in relation to the filament used. Filaments that tend to have a problem with this include ABS. With this filament, the printing pad needs to be heated during printing. In general, the temperature when printing on a 3D printer is important, because in order for a 3D print to be created at all, the filament needs to cool down a bit. But again, there must not be too much of a temperature difference. This could cause the edges of the print to start to peel away from the print mat, and that's where the problem lies. If you have tried everything possible and the edge of the first layer still peels off, you can try a slightly unconventional solution - stick this edge to the printing pad with adhesive tape. |
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Adjusting the height of the nozzleThe correct nozzle height setting is important for the final result. If you set the nozzle too high, the individual layers of filament will not line up properly, and you may end up with a so-called blob (a layer of filament that collects around the hotend), for example, which is not something you want to repeat. Setting the nozzle too low can result in tearing of the already printed filament and damage to the printing pad. |
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Fan speedThe correct setting of the fan speed sometimes plays a role in how well the filament layers adhere. The basic rule is: the longer the filament is melted, the better it adheres to the previous layer. So if you ever struggle with proper adhesion and have already tried adjusting the print settings in different ways, don't forget to adjust the filament puff as well. Try a lower fan speed. But you must always keep in mind the cooling needs of the particular filament. If the cooling was set at too low an intensity for a specific filament, the filament would harden poorly and you would not be satisfied with the print result. |
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Printing padsThere is quite a large selection of printing pads on the market, which are made of different materials and have different properties accordingly. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Glass pads tend to be more affordable, but those with a smooth surface could have a problem with adhesion. Steel and magnetic mats usually have a removable upper part that can be easily bent and the print can be easily removed. But with steel washers, you'll have to dig deeper into your wallet. If you're not happy with the adhesion of your print pad, you don't necessarily need to get a whole new print pad right away. There are PEI foils or self-adhesive printing pads that you stick to the printing pad and better adhesion of the filament will be taken care of at once. In general, better grip will work on mats with a rougher pattern versus a smooth surface. |
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Heated printing padIf the print bed is at a higher temperature, the filament will be melted for a longer period of time. And thanks to this, it will have more time for the first layer to better adhere to the substrate. But even here it is true that too much of everything is harmful. If the substrate is set to too high a temperature, it may happen that the printed filament will not be dimensionally stable. The weight of the higher layers will press on the lower layers, which have not yet had time to cool and solidify. Subsequently, the print could be distorted. Therefore, it is important to adjust the temperature of the printing pad with sensitivity. |
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Specific advice on adhesion according to filament type
Adhesion to the printing mat when printing PP (polypropylene)
- Polypropylene is known for its low adhesion to most surfaces. You can print on it easily - you will print directly on it! What will help?
- Printing on regular polypropylene tape. But be careful, it often remains on the print, so put the first layer as high as possible. A separation layer will also help, for example 3D lac, which is then dissolved in alcohol or spirit.
- Printing on PPPrint mat https://www.ppprint.de/.
ABS Print Warping
- Use a draft shield, a slicer-created shield around the print
- At the same time use the brim, it should touch the shield (3 mm in Prusaslicer)
- Use a filler that is not prone to shrinkage in one direction - for example, gyroid or honeycomb
- glue the corners of the model with instant glue (you can only glue the brim and not damage the printed part)
- Create circular models that you embed in the slicer into the corners of your model - it will hold it in place
- Use 3D Lac PLUS
How to keep on the TPE on printbed
- TPE adheres well to PP adhesive tape, but often the printed part is very well connected to the substrate, so it is necessary to print a little higher, or use a separator (for example, you can use 3D Lac, which is then soluble in alcohol / isopropyl alcohol).
How to keep on the TPU pad
- TPU adheres best to a PEI printing pad.
3D printing PEEK
- I'm assuming you have a printer with a heated chamber and a bed with 150+ capability, such as Creatbot or Intamsys
- Use the raft
- Preheat the chamber to at least 90 degrees one hour before printing
- Use kores or liquid glue in three layers and always let it evaporate on the glass mat, our mat is completely brown from the glue
Helpers to fight adhesion
Adhesive spray
It will be ideal if you use a special varnish designed directly for 3D printing. You can also use classic hairspray, but the results are not guaranteed. And not all hairsprays might work the way you need them to. Sprays made directly to increase adhesion in 3D printing include, for example, the brands 3D LAC or Dimafix. The varnish is easy to apply and lasts a long time, so it is cost-effective.
Classic adhesives
These are, for example, well-known brands such as Herkules or Kores. These glues are not expensive at all. And they are most often used when printing with ABS, ASA or PET-G filaments.
Adhesive tape
Another option that you can use to improve adhesion is blue adhesive tape. It also withstands higher temperatures, so you can use it on heated printing pads. The adhesive tape has medium high adhesion.
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